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Independent ascent of Mont Blanc, route description

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There is a constant debate among climbers about which mountain should be considered the highest point in Europe - Elbrus or Mont Blanc. But having visited both peaks, I can say that the route of climbing Mont Blanc, even along the classic route, is much more interesting and beautiful than climbing Elbrus along the route from the south. And although Elbrus is almost a kilometer higher, I would advise anyone who is interested in climbing to visit Mont Blanc.

My express ascent of Mont Blanc

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Initially, the ascent of Mont Blanc was planned not along the classic route through the Tete Rousse and Goutera shelters, but along the route from the Refuge des Cosmiques through the three peaks of Mont Blanc - Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc.

But a few days before the ascent, a cyclone came and a lot of fresh snow fell. Because of this, the slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul became avalanche-prone and we decided not to take any chances…

Description of the climbing route to Lenin Peak

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The route of climbing the classics through the top is separate

Driving to Lenin Peak along the classic route starts from the Base Camp, located at an altitude of 3,500 meters.

More precisely, several camps of various travel agencies are scattered on the ancient moraine of the glacier, but the whole area is usually called by one name - base camp, also known as bazlag or BL. There is still scant vegetation in the form of grass and there is still enough air to breathe in a normal rhythm.

Solo ascent to Lenin Peak, cost, documents and other details

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This article is written as a summary of all the useful materials I found in preparation for climbing Lenin Peak in 2016. It is not an instruction for climbing, and it is not the ultimate truth, it is just a generalization of some articles on this topic. Remember that staying in the mountains can be life-threatening, if you do not have enough experience, it is better to use the services of local guides and travel agencies than to add yourself to the list of accidents.

The history of climbing Lenin Peak

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Lenin Peak is a mountain peak, 7134 meters high, located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

Until 1928, the mountain was called Kaufman Peak, and since 2006, the Government of Tajikistan has changed the name of the mountain to the peak named after Abu Ali ibn Sina. But the old name of Lenin Peak remained in everyday use.

Lenin Peak is one of the "seven thousandth peaks" — the highest peaks of the former USSR and one of the highest peaks of Central Asia. Lenin Peak is located in the Pamir mountain system, in the north of the Himalaya mountain range. The Pamir is the highest mountain system in the south of the former USSR, located on the territory of Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan and India. Pamir is located at the junction of the spurs of other powerful mountain systems of Central Asia — the Hindu Kush, Karakorum, Kunlun and Tien Shan.